Saturday, Sept 18: Bozeman | West Yellowstone | Island Park
The group met in Bozeman to begin this tour of the northwest visiting Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho over the next 8 days. Today we drove to Idaho, traveling along the Gallatin River, marveling at the dramatic scenery of this area. Our first herd of American Bison was spotted not far from Bozeman near the continental divide. We stopped in West Yellowstone, the last large city we would see till the end of the tour. We arrived at Angler’s Lodge, settled into our rooms located only a few feet from the Snake River, met for cocktail hour near the fireplace in the lodge, as we watched Common Mergansers, Osprey, Bald Eagles, and American White Pelican on the river.
Sunday, Sept 19: Henry’s Lake | Harriman State Park
We awoke to a forecast of rain and snow in September! After breakfast, we drove to nearby Henry’s Lake finding a large variety of waterfowl including 12 species of ducks, many in breeding plumage, and 5 species of grebe including Horned, Eared and Western again in striking plumage. Snow began covering the nearby hills as we watched California Gulls, Osprey, and Bald Eagles soaring, and a Peregrine Falcon flew quickly across the lake. On land, we spotted Northern Harriers, Vesper Sparrows, and Western Meadowlarks. As we drove through the beautiful pinewoods to return to our lodge for lunch, we heard over the two-way radios “Great Gray Owl!!!” from the last van. Darlene had spotted the owl low on a post close to the road. A key bird for most of the group, we watched and photographed this majestic owl from a distance as he hunted from post to post. We spent the afternoon birding at Harriman State Park and Silver Lake. We found our first Mountain Chickadees along the road and had quick glimpses of Marsh Wrens. We walked along the stream spotting Belted Kingfishers, our first pair of Trumpeter Swans, and a small migrating flocks of warblers included a Wilson’s and Yellow-rumped. On our return we saw a young moose feeding in the Snake River in front of our lodge, which we could photograph and watch from our rooms.
Monday, Sept 20: Madison River | Old Faithful | Geyser Basins
Today we left the Idaho lodge and drove the beautiful Madison Valley in Wyoming, visiting the breathtaking Firehole Canyon and falls. We arrived at Old Faithful Geyser shortly before an eruption, enjoyed a picnic lunch, and visited the dramatic Old Faithful Inn. This national historic landmark, built in 1903 with local logs and stones, is considered the largest log structure in the world. After we walked the geyser boardwalk, we watched a much better eruption and a Clark’s Nutcracker in a tree behind us. As we drove the Firehole Lake Drive, Bryan spotted a pair of Ruffed Grouse in the road, a life bird for many! The temperature, a little above freezing, caused the geysers to be covered in steam and more dramatic than usual as we drove the geyser basin.
Our first drive through Lamar Valley introduced the group to this best location for mammals in Yellowstone. American Bison, sensing the approaching winter season, were seen migrating in large herds down the hillsides from higher altitudes to the plush ponds in the valley. We arrived in Cooke City, checked into our hotel.
Tuesday, Sept 21: Lamar Valley
Slowly we drove the Lamar Valley looking for mammals that call this fertile valley their winter home. We found our first wolf, a black Gray Wolf, hunting close to the road, quickly getting photographs of this beautiful predator. Shortly afterwards, we saw a lone coyote also hunting along the road, and herds of bison were crossing the road, feeding in the plush grass, and rolling in the dirt circles. We returned to Silver Gate for lunch and stopped near Cooke City at beaver ponds where a male, female, and juvenile moose were feeding on the willow leaves, their favorite food. After dinner, having heard about a wolf pack seen hunting in the area, we returned to the valley before sunset and were rewarded with a pack of up to 12 wolves running along the ridge before dark.
Wednesday, Sept 22: Beartooth Pass
With beautiful weather this morning, we took the scenic drive to the “Top of the World” on Beartooth Highway. Elevations rise to 12,000’ in the 920,000-acre Absaroka Wilderness, and snow remained on the north facing slopes. At the pinnacle, we found a target mammal species, the American Pika, a montane species most had never seen before. The very cute and busy Pika ran from rock to rock making photography difficult. We marveled at the magnificent views at each turn in the highway, truly feeling we were at the top of the world. A stop at the Rock Creek Vista Point restrooms provided us with close views of Red Crossbills feeding on pinecones. We ate our picnic lunch in the Limber Pine campgrounds near a stream where we found our first American Dipper. During the drive, we spotted a Prairie Falcon hunting over the cliffs, and Horned Larks fought the wind to feed at the summit. We returned with time for many to visit the museum and other shops in the interesting town of Cooke City.
Thursday, Sept 23: Slough Creek | Mammoth Hot Springs | Gardiner
This morning we traveled the Lamar Valley, stopping at Pebble Creek for additional sightings of an American Dipper. Slough Creek Campground’s trail proved to be very productive with great views of two Three-toed Woodpeckers, a life bird for many, Ruby-crowned Kinglets, and scope views of a Golden Eagle which breed on the nearby cliffs. We were stopped often by herds of Bison crossing the road, moving into the fertile valley for the winter, some with tan new calves. On the highway to Mammoth, we stopped at Swan Lake and found a family of Trumpeter Swans, two adults and four cygnets. But the excitement of the day came shortly afterwards when we stopped for a traffic jam near Bunsen Peak trailhead. A male Grizzly Bear was near the road walking in the field and creating quite a commotion. We enjoyed watching this huge bear for a length of time foraging in the field and eventually moving into the nearby woods.
We stopped and walked the boardwalk at the travertine terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs, one of the world’s best-protected examples of travertine-depositing hot springs. We were surprised to find our first Killdeer and an American Pipit on the thermals feeding on insects. A Townsend’s Solitaire perched at the top of a leafless tree. A herd of Elk was feeding in the grass around the visitor’s center. We continued into the scenic town of Gardiner, crossing the Yellowstone River, and checked into our lodge located along the river’s bank. Wesley Larson, a specialist in bears and naturalist for Yellowstone Park, met with our group to discuss bears and the proper use of bear spray.
Friday, Sept 24: Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone | Hayden Valley
Our last full day in the park. We first visited the Lower Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, created by a huge volcanic eruption and eroded by the Yellowstone River. The 308’ Lower Falls can be viewed from various lookout points, and we stopped for views and photos. We went to the east side to visit the famous Artist Point with great views of the Lower Falls canyon. As we left, to our surprise, a Dusky Grouse was found in the parking lot feeding on seeds in the median for great looks and many photos.
We traveled the Hayden Valley, with the Yellowstone River snaking though it, and stopped at Le Hardy’s Rapids. There we found a family of American Dipper interacting in the rapids, two Harlequin Ducks, and Common Mergansers feeding from the rocks. We stopped on our return at Mud Volcano, where the Dragon’s Mouth Spring’s geyser’s vocalization was very impressive! When we returned to Gardiner, we stopped at the Roosevelt Arch for photos. In 1903, the arch was completed and dedicated by Theodore Roosevelt, who laid the cornerstone to this first national park. Our farewell dinner was enjoyed at the Wonderland Café where we celebrated this memorable week touring Yellowstone National Park and the surrounding wilderness areas!
Saturday, Sept 25: Tom Miner Basin | Return to Bozeman
We had time before our return to Bozeman to stop at Tom Miner Basin, prime grizzly bear habitat just northeast of Yellowstone. The basin is home to an abundant supply of a non-native plant, caraway, with a calorie-rich root that grizzlies like to dig up and eat. We arrived in time to get good scope looks at a male, female, and cub digging in the field. A Northern Harrier sat on a fence post in the field. Departures from Bozeman was bittersweet as our compatible group said their farewells and departed to various locations in the U.S.
We saw 85 bird species and 13 mammals.
(HO)= Distinctive enough to be counted as heard only (I)=introduced
BIRDS (85 species recorded, of which 1 was heard only):
DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS: Anatidae (16)
Canada Goose Branta canadensis—Seen often at many locations around water
Trumpeter Swan Cygnus buccinator—Our first sighting of a pair of swans was in Henry’s Fork at Harriman State Park; a pair with four cygnets fittingly seen in Swan LakeBlue-winged Teal Spatula discors—A few seen in Henry’s Lake & Swan Lake
Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata—Seen in Henry’s Lake & ponds in Lamar Valley
Gadwall Mareca strepera—Seen in breeding plumage in Henrys Lake
American Wigeon Mareca americana—Surprisingly large number seen in Henry’s Lake
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos—Seen often in many areas with water
Northern Pintail Anas acuta—Three spotted in Henry’s Fork at Harriman State Park
Redhead Aythya americana—Very large number seen in Silver Lake at Harriman State Park Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris—Seen in Henry’s Lake & Silver Lake at Harriman State Park
Lesser Scaup Aythya affinis—Males & females with other duck species at Henry’s Lake
Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus—We watched two in alternate plumage feeding in the rapids during our visit to LeHardy’s Rapids
Bufflehead Bucephala albeola—A nice number of individuals in Henry’s Lake
Hooded Merganser Lophodytes cucullatus—Seen with Common Mergansers in Beartooth Lake Common Merganser Mergus merganser—Energetically feeding in the rapids with Harlequin Ducks at LeHardy’s Rapids; seen often at other locations
Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis—Nice numbers, some in breeding plumage, with other duck species in Henry’s Lake
PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS AND ALLIES: Phasianidae (2)
Ruffed Grouse Bonasa umbellus—What a surprise! Two spotted by Bryan along the road on drive at Firehole Lake
Dusky Grouse Dendragapus obscurus—As we were leaving Artist Point, we found this grouse in the parking lot! A life bird for many!!
GREBES: Podicipedidae (5)
Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps—Seen on our visit to Henry’s Lake
Horned Grebe Podiceps auritus—Wow! What a thrill to see this & other grebe species in breeding plumage at Henry’s Lake
Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena—Two different individuals seen on our visit to Henry’s Lake Eared Grebe Podiceps nigricollis—Other striking species in breeding plumage seen at Henry’s Lake Western Grebe Aechmophorus occidentalis—Completing our “grand slam” of grebes, good scope views at Henry’s Lake
PIGEONS AND DOVES: Columbidae (3)
Rock Pigeon Columba livia (I)—Seen in large numbers in Gardiner
Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto (I)—Seen on utility wires in Gardiner & Bozeman Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura—Oddly, only seen once, in town of Mammoth
RAILS, COOTS AND ALLIES: Rallidae (1)
American Coot Fulica americana—Frequently seen at all lakes we visited
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: Charadriidae (1)
Killdeer Charadrius vociferus—Oddly, only seen once, on the travertine terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs
GULLS AND TERNS: Laridae (2)
Ring-billed Gull Larus delawarensis—Seen with California Gulls for nice comparison at Henry’s Lake California Gull Larus californicus—Juveniles & adults seen with Ring-billed Gulls at Henry’s Lake
CORMORANTS: Phalacrocoracidae (1)
Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus—Seen perched & diving at Henry’s Lake
PELICANS: Pelecanidae (1)
American White Pelican Pelecanus erythrorhynchos—Seen flying over the Snake River at the lodge, one at Henry’s Lake, & large flock at Harriman SP
HERONS AND EGRETS: Ardeidae (1)
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias—Seen often along most water features
NEW WORLD VULTURES: Cathartidae (1)
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura—Best seen soaring at Henry’s Lake
OSPREY: Pandionidae (1)
Osprey Pandion haliaetus—Vocalizing & feeding at close range on the Snake River from the lodge
HAWKS, KITES AND EAGLES: Accipitridae (5)
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos—Success! Seen at a distance on the second visit to Slough Creek where they nest
Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus—Seen well hunting over the fields on drive at Henry’s Lake Cooper’s Hawk Accipiter cooperii—Perched in tree for good looks on walk at Harriman SP
Bald Eagle Haliaeetus leucocephalus—Seen almost daily near all water features
Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis—Most frequently seen hawk, perched & soaring, at many locations
OWLS: Strigidae (1)
Great Gray Owl Strix nebulosa—One of the favorite birds of the trip! Spotted by Darlene hunting while it was perched on a low post as we drove from visit to Henry’s Lake. Happily, watched & photographed this sought after species at length.
KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae (1)
Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon—Male & female feeding on Silver Lake at Harriman SP
WOODPECKERS: Picidae (3)
American Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides dorsalis—Great find! We found a pair on our hike at Slough Creek after seeing trees with their distinctive feeding pattern on pine bark.
Hairy Woodpecker Dryobates villosus—Seen well on walk at Harriman SP
Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus—Seen perched from the parking lot at Harriman SP & on Pebble Creek Trail
FALCONS AND CARACARAS: Falconidae (3)
American Kestrel Falco sparverius—Good looks at a pair on visit to Henry’s Lake; seen perched during drives
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus—Seen flying low over Henry’s Lake
Prairie Falcon Falco mexicanus—At least one seen flying low on visit to Beartooth Pass
TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: Tyrannidae (1)
Western Wood-Pewee Contopus sordidulus—(HO) Heard vocalizing while on walk at Harriman SP
CROWS AND JAYS: Corvidae (5)
Canada Jay Perisoreus canadensis—Lucky sighting of a small group while visiting a rest area near Island Lake
Steller’s Jay Cyanocitta stelleri—Oddly, only seen at our hotel in Cooke City & the restaurant at Silvergate
Black-billed Magpie Pica hudsonia—A fun species, seen daily in all habitats!
Clark’s Nutcracker Nucifraga columbiana—We were surprised to see this species very often including perched at Old Faithful, on walk at Cooke City, & Slough Creek
Common Raven Corvus corax—Seen often & daily at all habitats in good numbers
TITS AND CHICKADEES: Paridae (2)
Black-capped Chickadee Poecile atricapillus—Finally, small group found in the rest area on return to Bozeman on the last day
Mountain Chickadee Poecile gambeli—Seen well & often on walks, first sighting at flock at Harriman SP
LARKS: Alaudidae (1)
Horned Lark Eremophila alpestris—Vocalizing & seen on the ground on visit to Beartooth Pass
SWALLOWS AND MARTINS: Hirundinidae (2)
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica—Feeding over the fields on visit to Henry’s Lake
Cliff Swallow Petrochelidon pyrrhonota—Seen over the water on visit to Henry’s Lake
KINGLETS: Regulidae (1)
Ruby-crowned Kinglet Regulus calendula—Seen well on walks at Harriman SP & at Slough Creek
NUTHATCHES: Sittidae (1)
Red-breasted Nuthatch Sitta canadensis—Seen & heard on walk at Cooke City
CREEPERS: Certhiidae (1)
Brown Creeper Certhia americana—Heard, then spotted while waiting at Beartooth highway construction & seen on walk at Slough Creek
WRENS: Troglodytidae (1)
Marsh Wren Cistothorus palustris—Quick glimpses of this shy skulker at Harriman SP
DIPPERS: Cinclidae (1)
American Dipper Cinclus mexicanus—We had great luck watching many individuals of this popular species feeding in the rapids at Limber Pine Camp grounds, Pebble Creek, and LeHardy’s Rapids
STARLINGS AND MYNAS: Sturnidae (1)
European Starling Sturnus vulgaris (I)—Seen perched on drives & good numbers in Gardiner
MOCKINGBIRDS AND THRASHERS: Mimidae (1)
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis—Heard & seen feeding on berries in trees near Angler’s Lodge in Idaho
THRUSHES: Turdidae (3)
Mountain Bluebird Sialia currucoides—Flock seen on drive at Firehole Lake
Townsend’s Solitaire Myadestes townsendi—Seen best perched at treetop on visit to Mammoth Hot Springs
American Robin Turdus migratorius—Seen daily at many different habitats
WAXWINGS: Bombycillidae (1)
Cedar Waxwing Bombycilla cedrorum—A pair seen eating berries in the trees across from Angler’s Lodge
OLD WORLD SPARROWS: Passeridae (1)
House Sparrow Passer domesticus (I)—Seen in the parking lots in Gardiner
PIPITS AND WAGTAILS: Motacillidae (1)
American Pipit Anthus rubescens—Heard in the fields around Henry’s Lake & a surprise sighting with Killdeer on the travertine terraces at Mammoth
FINCHES: Fringillidae (3)
Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra—Heard by Bryan in pines behind restrooms at Rock Creek Vista; close looks at males & females
Pine Siskin Spinus pinus—Heard & then seen in the pines on the path to view the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
American Goldfinch Spinus tristis—Seen in good numbers on the walk at Slough Creek
NEW WORLD SPARROWS: Passerellidae (3)
Dark-eyed Junco Junco hyemalis—Two subspecies seen: Oregon at Harriman Lake & Pink-sided near Cooke City.
White-crowned Sparrow Zonotrichia leucophrys—Most frequently seen & heard sparrow at many locations
Vesper Sparrow Pooecetes gramineus—Seen on the dirt road on visit to south Henry’s Lake
NEW WORLD BLACKBIRDS: Icteridae (3)
Western Meadowlark Sturnella neglecta—Seen along the dirt road on trip to Henry’s Lake Red-winged Blackbird Agelaius phoeniceus—Good numbers in the fields at Henry’s Lake
Brewer’s Blackbird Euphagus cyanocephalus—Seen frequently; most often in parking lots at many locations
NEW WORLD WARBLERS: Parulidae (2)
Yellow-rumped Warbler Setophaga coronata—Nice views at Harriman Lake SP, across from Angler’s Lodge, and at the rest area on trip to Bozeman
Wilson’s Warbler Cardellina pusilla—Feeding with Yellow-rumped in parking lot at Harriman SP
Mammals ( 13 species)
Pronghorn Antilocapra Americana—Beautiful! Seen almost daily at many locations
American Bison Bison bison—Great numbers seen migrating from higher altitudes into the Lamar Valley, some with newborn calves. We were stopped along the road many times for herds to cross. Rocky Mountain Goat Oreamnos americanus (I)—One seen on our drive in Lamar Valley
Moose Alces alces—We had great prolonged views of a moose in the Snake River from Angler’s Lodge; additional sightings of a male, female, and juvenile in the willows near Cooke City
Elk Cervus elaphus—Large numbers stay in Mammoth Village & additional sightings in & near Gardiner Mule Deer Odocoileus hemionus—Lone individuals seen on drives in Lamar Valley
Coyote Canis latrans—We watched a lone coyote close to the road, then crossing behind us, on our return from Roosevelt Lodge. Howling could be heard at night in Cooke City.
Gray Wolf Canis lupus—We had great views from the road of a lone black Gray Wolf at close range on a visit to Lamar Valley. At sunset, we returned to the Lamar Valley to a known area for a pack at sunset & watched a pack of 19 beginning their evening hunt. This was the most popular sighting of the trip! Brown (Grizzly) Bear Ursus arctos—What great luck! We were returning to Gardiner near Mammoth when traffic was stopped for a close male Grizzly Bear, and we watched him for a length of time. On the last day, we stopped at Tom Miner Valley to get good scope views of a male, female, and cub in the field.
American Pika Ochotona princeps—A target species on our visit to the top of Beartooth Pass, we watched this very small and cute mountain-dwelling mammal for a length of time.
Least Chipmunk Tamias minimus—We had many views of this very cute chipmunk at many locations. American Red Squirrel Tamiasciurus hudsonicus—Good sightings of this lovely squirrel, best at Slough Creek.
Muskrat Ondatra zibethicus—Seen at Harriman SP in Silver Lake.